After over 20 years of grooming Longhair Dachshunds, there have been many styles, techniques and methods taught or shown to me by everyone from long-time breeders, dachshund handlers and even all-breed handlers.

Click to view video
Click here to view video

I have combined all this knowledge and below are techniques I suggest for grooming a Longhair Dachshund for an AKC show. As you look at the photos you will see that this dog is rather heavily coated and completely ungroomed. Read the entire article first before starting your grooming.

The first thing I want to explain is I find using a clipper to put a pattern onto a neck can be a real time saver. I highly recommend doing this at LEAST 14-21 days prior to showing your dog. In the event you are not comfortable using a clipper, then you can achieve a similar look by using thinning shears. It will take longer, but it is the right choice if you do not feel you can achieve a smooth trim with a clipper.

Click photos below to enlarge

Here are the tools I used to groom the dog in the video:
ToolsClipper - Blade depends on the thickness of the dog’s neck coat. If it is a very thick coat a #10 blade will give a nice tight trim with very short length. If the coat is thinner or finer I suggest using a 7F if you have 3 weeks or 4F if you only have 2 weeks. I used a 7F in these photos.
Soft Slicker – used for overall brushing of thicker coat especially hocks, furnishings, legs
Bristle brush, with or without plastic teeth – used for overall brushing of body coat after grooming and in show preparation to avoid irritating the skin with a slicker
7” 40-tooth thinning shears
7” straight scissors – I like the ones with a slight serration on the edge to give a clean cut
Hauptner “real” stripping knife, fine tooth (white handle) – Can be used for all raking to remove undercoat
Mars 330 stripping knife – excellent tool to remove heavier top coat.

Side Note – ALWAYS use the stripping knives in a raking motion. Position approximately 45% to the coat with the teeth facing the direction you are raking. This is a raking tool for removing loose undercoat, not for pulling or stripping. Longhair coat will easily break if you pinch against the knife and pull.

 

EarsEars - use your straight shears and trim all the hair inside the ear closest to the head that is exposed when you flip the ear back. Then you will lift the ear up and use your thinning shears to trim the hair directly under the ear next to the neck. This gives your leash a clean place to sit and allows the ear to lay against the head. I also use my fingers to pull some of the “fluffy” hair on the back and top of the ear that tends to get flyaway and look greasy. Never pull all the fluffy hair, just the excess that you notice when looking at the head from the front.


Neck
- After you have the ear nice and clean you will use either your clipper or thinning shears to take the neck down between the ridges. This area starts under the jaw and goes to approximately 2-3 fingers distance before the indentation, which is above the most prominent point of the forechest. To find this indentation, run your hand down the throat with your palm flat. You will want to have a “V” at the bottom of the neck where it blends from the trimmed coat to the untrimmed bib.

Neck from the front
Main neck - clippers
Neck from the front
Clippers on the neck

Neck Continued (the ridges) - Once the general pattern is set between the ridges, you will use your thinning shears as your main tool for finishing the neck. Using the bristle brush, bring all the hair from the side of the neck over the ridge toward the throat. You will then slide the thinners under the coat perpendicular the ridge starting at the ear using one cut at a time down to bottom of the ridge. Then do one additional cut below the ridge for blending. Use a comb to pull out the hair you have trimmed. The take the brush and draw the coat straight down from the ear along the ridge. You will then cut the ridge hair using the thinning shears until it is approximately flush with the rest of the neck. This is where you use the thinning shears parallel to the ridge and cut on top not under the coat. If you notice the hair seems full along point of shoulder, you can use your Hauptner and rake (like a comb) from the side of the neck all the way down to the front legs. If you are right handed, you will find the show side to be the easiest, if left handed, unfortunately you will prefer the non-show side. I find it best to work from top to bottom alternating sides, not one full side then the other. For instance, complete the ears on both sides, then move to putting the pattern in the neck, then do the finish work on the ridge/neck on one side then the other.

Close up of neck
Neck


Body Coat - Now that you have a nice clean front of the neck, I use the Mars and then the Hauptner to pull all loose coat out of the back of the neck, body and thighs. I start with the Mars as it will do the heavy work, then use the Hauptner for more finish work. (Neck from back) Key points needing special attention: behind the withers some dogs will have a color change, the blend between the neck and shoulders, the furnishings on the front legs, and the thickest point on the thighs. Be aware that if you put too much pressure on the blade you can irritate the skin. I work from the front of the dog toward the rear and continue until the coat is thinned out so there is a smooth outline. I never use any shears on the back of the neck or body coat.



Tail - I hold the tail to ensure the coat is hanging down. Using the Mars knife rake along the top of the tail starting before the base to ensure a smooth continuation of the topline. (Tail from top) Using the Mars in a downward motion from the top perpendicular to the tail you will thin some of the hair out until you have a clean line on the top and then flag below. If the bottom of the tail flag is uneven, brush the tail hair toward the end of the tail like you are going to make a ponytail. Using your thinning shears trim the longest pieces to create a clean sweep from the tip of the tail toward the body. (Tail from side)

Tail from the side
Tail from the top


Feet
– The key to the feet is to remove all the hair along the bottom edges of the pads. The template you will use are the pads. On the front feet, take your fingers and pull the hair up between the toes toward the top of the foot. You then have your choice of pulling the longer hair with your fingers, or using the thinning shears (not the straight shear) and cutting off the hair now pulled above the foot. As you look at the profile of the foot, trim the hair on the back of the foot from the largest pad to the small pad. This is an excellent way to highlight a nice foot as well as keep the front furnishings from overwhelming the balance. (Front foot toes, front foot) The rear feet are done the same as the front feet. If your dog has heavy coat on its hocks, I recommend trimming this. You can either brush the hock hair down toward the foot with the slicker and then using the thinning shear trim along the pad, or you can brush the coat away from the hock and cut the hair with your thinning shears evenly approximately ½-1 inch in length parallel to the hock.

Front foot toes Front Foot

 

As with any grooming, specific details related to each dog’s coat, structure and even color can require modifications to achieve the ultimate look you desire.

Front Groomed
Profile - Groomed

 

 





 

Pam & Dave Peat

Affenpinschers

Scottsdale, Arizona
480-473-4776

pramada@cox.net

Maggie Peat

Dachshunds

South San Francisco, California
415-309-0103

pramada.kennels@gmail.com